Today was our 'relax and have fun before it all begins' Day. After some discussion and changing our minds we agreed to go to Tarquinia on the coast, near Cività Vecchia. It was not a long drive and offered sea, sun and fish - all worth travelling for especially all together. The traffic was awful as always and Andre is still grappling with jest lag but we got there ok and then realised the Etruscan. Museum seems to be in two places. We went to the National Museum but realised the frescoed wall of Etruscan banquets and animal were in another place. But we decided to stay with what we had and saw some stunning pottery and jewellery as well as massive Henry Moore type ladies and a wealth of delicate bronzes and gold work, all from as early as 800BC. It was very hot and nearly 2.00 after that so we decided to go in search of dinner and to look at the Etruscan paintings online, where we might actually see more.
So we tootled along, got slightly lost among the saline which we discovered were salt pans where the sea was evaporating in the heat and leaving a crust of white salt along the edges. We often eat sea salt, so it was interesting to see it in its early stages. When that was sorted and the hige rented car-turned round without falling into any of the available ditches, we set off even more seriously in search of lunch. We wanted, sea, view, good food, nice ambience and as soon as possible. Finally we found all three at the Ideal Restaurant. It was a two storey house in a fairly large garden with hibiscus in bloom and all looked well cared for. Going through the entrance we came to a huge conservatory type extension which was right by the beautifully clear blue, green Mediterranean sea. Across the bay were moored two cruiser ships, sailing around were several sailing boats with white sails. The maitre d' said we were not too late and led us to a table looking down onto rocks and shallow water. It was gone 2.00 by this time and we chose rapidly. Andre' had a mixed Fruit if the Sea dish, different kinds of fish and shellfish which he said was delicious, though being a south Italian he really likes lots of garlic with everything. Murray ahd what he later described as the best ever spaghetti with shell fish, clams mostly. Since shell fish made me so sick a few years ago, to my great sorrow, I have avoided them and this did not seem the moment to experiment with the pilgrims arriving in the morning. So i had something I have read about which was small squid cooked in their ink. When I made the order a kind of movement went across the waiter's face. I did not know what it meant so told him I had read about this but never had it and he smiled nicely. When it came, on a large dinner platter, there was this large bumpy pool of food which was absolutely black. I was sort of prepared as it was called 'al Nero'. In fact it tasted very nice though I was a bit knocked back half way through to realise that the bumpiness was lots of tiny squid about an inch and a half long. I began to feel wicked and wish I could be a vegan but I am sorry to say I enjoyed them and ate it all up then followed it with. Lemon sorbet and felt ready for anything!
This restaurant was rated A1 and put on the very shortest short list. But its crowning delight came when we we all trooped to the toilet before leaving as the whole area, men on one side and women on the other, was decorated as under water, painted a-sea green with shells all over the place and, in the women's part, the toilet seat was all sparkly and twinkly, like that holograph paper you can get! So that was fun, even better than getting lost in yesterday's potting shed!
We drove back to Rome door to door along the famous Roman road, the via Aurelia. History was all around us. The Romans marched to conquer the Etruscans along this road which is still numbered 1 of all the roads leading out of Rome. We had a great discussion in the car about the difference between a lorry and a-truck in UK and USA and where do the words come from anyway? So now we are back at Tra Noi and start work tomorrow, leaving for the airport I guess, at around 6.00 am as the first flight gets in at 7.10 and then it will be all go. More anon with love to you all. ft
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